(A smallish out-of-the-way Church with a magnificent Beccafumi.)

In the Pian dei Mantellini, San Niccolo al Carmine (also known as Santa Maria del Carmine) is the church of Siena's Carmelite convent. Apart from the big handsome bell-tower, the building itself is undistinguished, but the paintings inside are worth a look if you are passing by.

Over the altar opposite the entrance, there is a huge painting by Beccafumi, Siena's chief mannerist painter (1485-1551), of St Michael the Archangel pushing the Devil and the rebellious angels down to hell, with a fierce-looking God the Father urging him on from above (there is another version of this scene in the Pinacoteca). It has Beccafumi's usual good light effects, unfortunately difficult to appreciate in the gloom of the church.

To the right is an unfortunately damaged fresco of a choir of heavenly angels attributed to the early 15th century artist Benedetto di Bindo. The angels are managing to hover in a most relaxed and convincing way, playing a variety of instruments, around the now obliterated figure of the Virgin being assumed into heaven. At the bottom left of the fresco, St Lucy is carrying her eyes on a plate (one of the various attempts at martyring her involved her eyes being torn out, subsequently to be miraculously restored). St Catherine of Alexandria stands on the other side.

A door on the other side of the Beccafumi leads into the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament. Over the altar, there is a birth of the Virgin by Sodoma (painted about 1537), with a particularly large bevy of women fussing around the newly delivered mother. It has a handsome 16th century marble surround.

Back in the main church, next to the door into the chapel, there is 13th century byzantine-style Madonna and Child - the "Madonna dei Mantellini" inset into a larger and later painting.

Next to the church, at No 44, is the old cloister of the convent. It is now part of the University, but still retains early 18th century frescoes by Giuseppe Niccola Nasini.

1980s